Flappers & Frogs - Obed Trip August 2012

On this particular week Lukas' caretaker was on vacation and we wanted to take advantage of our precious few vacation days.  I was tired of the oppressive heat, hiking, and yellow jackets plaguing us at Crowder’s.  After an encouraging post from a fellow climbing mama mentioning beautiful climbing, short approaches, and watering holes, I decided Obed was the place to go.  Thursday afternoon we packed up and headed to Tennessee in the pouring down rain.  

Nothing like a nap in the rain

It continued to rain Friday but we ventured out and hoped for the best under the roofs at Lilly Bluff.  The peaceful, quiet, rainy day was a bit boring for the boys, but thankfully there were a few frogs to keep them company.  

Thank you TINY frogs for being our pets at Lilly Bluffs!

We starting the day warming up on Rocking Chair.  It was a fun warm up and Noah made it to the top!

Noah cleaning draws on Rocking Chair 5.9

I'd gotten pretty excited reading about a route called Heresy (5.11c) with a beautiful face followed by a massive roof.  Not only was it harder than anything I’d led outside before, but I'd never done anything like it. I probably shouldn't start climbing trips with the hardest routes, but common sense usually loses to my own excitement and enthusiasm.  One of these days I'll learn my lesson...    With the rain there weren't a lot of other choices, so I had a good excuse to go ahead and try it.  It begins with a bouldery start, followed by a beautiful face climb containing the crux, and ends with some big, juggy, heady roof action.  The face contains the harder moves while the roof is more straightforward.  

Heresy 5.11c

I was surprised to breeze right through the boulder start and found myself heading into the crux.  The feet are almost nonexistent and the handholds are small, oddly angled, and tricky.  I hung at this point but I worked through it pretty easily and then continued setting the face draws.  After resting in the chimney before the roof, I worked my way out and up.  Those first few movements onto the roof are exhilarating (and it's very easy to look down!), but I focused on finding the best holds and working my feet.  My feet were clenching the roof so hard that my calves cramped up - not usually the muscles that I have trouble with when climbing! Since there was no chance of an onsight, I took a break about midway through the roof.  Once back on, I made my way out to the last hold before the anchor chain, but it seemed miles away.  Once I swung my feet out left though, I was able to wedge my foot in and clip the anchor chain!  The Heresy roof might not be technically hard, but it’s hard work and it’s BIG!!!!  I felt SO whipped afterwards but so happy. 

Jason on Heresy roof

We decided to try to get one more route in for the day, so we perused the guidebook looking for something easier that was also dry.  Although I had been warned that there was an erroneous picture of Tarantella in the guide, I didn’t know which of the two pictures was wrong.  After some time consuming shenanigans with a big stick, I found myself climbing a dirty dead end (also known as Electric Sky 12a).  The real Tarantella was soaking wet so we were back to square one.  With waning energy we decided Whippersnapper (5.11a) next door, though not as easy as I would have liked, would have to do. 

The route was LONG with several mini-roofs.  Any other time I’m sure I would have enjoyed it immensely, but I wasn’t too happy with all the rests I was taking to get enough energy to plow through each roof.  I definitely hope to get on it again.

On Saturday we woke up to gorgeous skies and perfect temperatures.   We finally got to meet fellow climbing mama Noell, her husband Craig, their daughter Riley, and their friend Jess.  We started out on Ticks are for Kids (5.10a) and Paraphernalia (5.10b/c).  It was a nice change to finally snag some onsights.  Next I tried a route the locals call Beach Ball and the guidebook calls Poison Ivy (5.11a).  I cruised through the bouldery start until a missed foot at the crux (glaringly obvious on second go) tripped me up.  Still, I was happy to tick the redpoint on the second go.  Throughout the day, I enjoyed watching Noell and Jess on Egyptian (5.11d), Craig on La Familia (5.12b/c), and a fellow female climber working Body Hammer (5.12b) - it was definitely hammering! 

To end the day, I decided to try Osiris (5.11c).  It's very beta intensive and probably the most technically difficult climb I've done to date.  I tried to climb it as cleanly as possible and follow my goal to "FALL TRYING!" 

Osiris (5.11c)

It was my last route of the day so I wasn't fully charged, but there were several committing moves that I went for and stuck!  One moment that will always stand out in my mind is going aggressively and dynamically for an out of reach hold, slapping my freshly chalked hand on the hold, and watching the chalk dust rise as my hand latched on securely.  I got another big bloody flapper, but it felt so good to get that move and finish the route that I could care less.  It's another fantastic route on the list for my next visit to Obed.

Osiris Pre- and Post-Slap

Sunday was another beautiful day.  Since we had to drive home after climbing, we headed to Lilly Bluffs again for the short approach, familiarity, and of course another attempt at Heresy.  On my first go, I forgot the opening sequence AND my crux beta, but I completed the face to get all the draws hung. On my second attempt, I completed the crux clean and thought, "This is it!  I can redpoint this thing!"  Unfortunately I missed a an easy jug and fell.  I think this is the most heartbroken I'd ever felt on a route because I had wasted precious strength, energy, and time making stupid mistakes.  

Heading into Heresy crux

On my third try, all the beta was finally dialed.  Once on the roof, I pushed through some strange rope drag clipping the third permadraw on the roof.  Onlookers told me afterwards that the rope got caught between the rock and my leg at the second permadraw. Still, I made it all the way to the edge of the roof to the final hold.  I tried getting my foot locked in as I recalled doing on Friday but couldn't quite make it happen this time. I tried the upper handhold and the lower handhold but none of it made me feel secure enough to clip this time.  At that point my pump was screaming and my hands slid right off the rock (and I got my second flapper of the trip).  

Comparing battle wounds

Every time I think about clipping the chain, I think, "I should have just clipped as soon as I got my foot left!" But, if I fell clipping without trying to get more secure, I'd probably beat myself up for that. After touching the ground, I learned about the rope issue, and got a great suggestion to skip the second permadraw to save some energy next time I try to redpoint.  

We didn't get home until after 10 pm, but I'm thankful that I got the chance to climb Heresy cleanly other than clipping the chain.  Heresy is MINE for the ticking next time in Obed!

This trip was a turning point in many ways.  I led everything and top roped nothing.  I led harder and with more confidence outside.  We learned how to stick clip up instead of bailing on a difficult section.  We learned new safety tips and how to better lead belay with a GriGri.  It was the first time we'd climbed with just the 4 of us and it was successful.  We still might not get in tons of routes each trip, but it's a sweet feeling knowing we have the freedom to get out there and climb on a whim!