Finding my way

Overhanging Hangover is a great little climb at Pilot Mountain NC.  We don’t get to Pilot all that often because it’s only an hour less of a drive than 2 of our favorite crags (Obed & New).  I first tried Oho on TR October 2009 right after getting pregnant with Lukas.  At that point I really hadn’t climbed a roof other than Gumby’s so it was an exciting route.  I managed to get through the crux but couldn’t imagine leading it at that time.  I finally got back on it in May 2012 but could not figure out a sequence for the crux and bailed.  In March 2013, I decided to give it another shot.  It went smoothly until the crux and once again I couldn’t find any beta that worked!  The route turned out to be embarrassingly epic.  

My beautiful belayer

After getting a flapper and searching for some tape, failing some more on the crux, trying to use a Trango Squid unsuccessfully, I ended my run with a bail.  Our friend Bennet was kind enough to put up the rope  even with an injured finger and on a fresher toprope run I easily worked out a sequence.  The problem with easily figuring something out though is that it’s more easily forgotten.  That’s exactly what happened the next time I worked it.  

Our three little bears

I gave up on the redpoint that weekend, but it just so happened that the next weekend was perfect for climbing so we headed back.  This time I had tape tied to my chalk bag for flappers and our stick clip went down the trail instead of staying in the car, so we were prepared.   

We started out on something newly bolted at Foreign Trade Zone but the whole thing was a little wonky.  I never figured out what route it was or why there was bolt off to the right. 

Next we headed to Oho!

Oho Crux Beta

Too bad I didn't study the pictures we took on my toprope run because I struggled at the crux again!  As soon as I stick clipped the bolt after the crux, I was able to work it out again though.  I matched hands on high left crimp, cut my feet loose, then placed my left toe high on tip of the v slot feature, pulled up, and stem right foot out on slopey hold (just below previous clipping hand hold).  In this position I’m very secure and I have the height to reach the next jug hold.  Turns out I'm the only person I know who does the crux this way.  After a break, I was finally able to redpoint Oho!  What an excellent feeling.

Climbing!

Lukas LOVED picking out the letters in the signs!!!